Duration: Six days Advanced Level Class
Class Size: Maximum of four students
- March 6th -11th
- April 3rd -April 8th
- Marc Adams School of Woodworking: October 9th-14th
The Gamble House, in Pasadena, is surely the most well known example of Greene & Greene expertise in Arts and Crafts design and execution. If you’ve ever had the good fortune to tour this home (it’s the only G&G home that’s open to the public), you’ve seen this chair at a small table off to the side of the living room. It incorporates many of the fundamental G&G design details like cloud lifts, ebony buttons, through tenons, offset joinery, and subtle shaping. Not only is it a beautiful design that’s comfortable to sit in, but it’s also built to survive the test of time.
In this class, you’ll learn processes and techniques involved in chair construction. We’ll talk about why we’re using specific methods in the class environment, and we’ll talk about other methods you could use in your own shop on future projects.
Over the course of six days, you’ll be milling parts, creating the mortise and tenon joinery, shaping and fitting parts, gluing up sub-assemblies, the final glue-up, and fitting ebony buttons and cross-ties (in the center back splat). George will also demonstrate some options for finishing your chair and for upholstering your chair seat when you get home. (Slip seat frame will be built in class but upholstering and materials are up to you when you get home)
Charles Greene once said, strive to…..”make these necessary and useful things pleasurable.” This is a perfect example of that!!
This is an advanced level class
- Small square (2”, 3”, 4”, or 6”) – for marking and aligning joinery and for aligning square hole punches for ebony buttons. Both the double square style or the combination square work well. A 12” combination square will work too.
- Tape Measure
- Square Hole Punch Chisels from Lee Valley
- 3/16” (#50K59.03) with 9/64” standard twist drill bit (NOT brad point) at least 3 1/2” long.
- ¼” (#50K59.04) with 13/64” standard twist drill bit (NOT brad point). Standard length (about 3 ¾” long is perfect.
- 5/16” (#) with 17/64” standard twist drill bit (NOT brad point) Standard length (about 4 ¼”) is perfect.
- Standard steel headed claw hammer for punching square holes
- Small mallet with hard plastic head for setting ebony buttons, and bars. Like Stanley #57-594 available at most Home Centers or contractor supply houses. Mallets with smaller heads (1” or 3/4” diameter) and weighing 8 oz to 12 oz are best. Also called a Jeweler’s Hammer or Gunsmith’s Hammer.
- Small Saw for cutting ebony buttons and bars to length. Like #65573 Mini Dozuki saw or Zona #35-500 Fine Kerf Razor Saw from Rockler. Or #156736 Mini Dozuki saw from Woodcraft. Or from Lee Valley, #60T07.30, or #60T06.12, or #60T55.01. I’ll have several on hand if you don’t have one.
- Dental pick for cleaning out square holes for buttons (not necessary, but sometimes helpful.) Best shape is a fairly straight shank with a slight hook at the end.
- If you have a favorite style of hand sanding blocks, bring them.
- If you have room to pack a cordless drill, batteries, and charger, we never have too many.
- Helpful, but not a necessity- Saddle Square (#05N56.01) or Large Saddle Square (#05N56.10) from Lee Valley
- Rubber “tadpole” sanding pads. We’ll use 3/8 – ½” sizes. Like #145958 at Woodcraft or #54412 at Rockler or#68Z82.01 at Lee Valley.
- Most people find it helpful to have a notebook and/or a camera (cell phone cameras work fine) to record set-ups, jigs, clamping techniques, glue-ups, etc for future reference.
Contact George at (425) 753-4476 to enroll in this class or be put on a waiting list. Please call between the hours of 8:00 am and 5:00 pm (Pacific Time). If you reach my voicemail, please leave your phone number and an email address, and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.