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    • #2610
      Charles Gray
      Participant

      I am currently working on the Fremont dresser. I built the Fremont nightstand two years ago in The Wood Whisperer Guild. When I first saw the dresser, I knew I wanted to build one to go with my nightstand. Darrell was kind enough to allow me to purchase his CAD file so I could build it. With the knowledge gained from the nightstand and chest of drawers projects in the guild, along with Darrell’s instagram posts last year showing some of the construction details for the dresser, I have been able to pull it off. Here are some photos showing the progress so far. I have the joinery for all of the drawers cut and now it is time to pillow the fingers.

      • This topic was modified 4 months, 4 weeks ago by James Snow.
      • This topic was modified 4 months, 3 weeks ago by Darrell Peart.
      • This topic was modified 4 months, 3 weeks ago by Darrell Peart.
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    • #2623
      James Snow
      Moderator

      Beautiful Work!!! It is on my list to build as well! When I was up at the sofa table class, he had the one he finished for Terry in the back of the shop and I spent a lot of time looking at it….the lines are just so beautiful. Can’t wait to see it finished. Keep it up!

    • #2644
      Mick Simon
      Moderator

      Very nice work, Charles. Excellent use of the figure, especially across the drawer fronts. Nice smooth arc.

    • #2659
      JoeJ
      Moderator

      Nice work Charles! Tell us about the jigs you have sitting next to the dresser. I assume that they are for routing the drawer fingers.

    • #2664
      Charles Gray
      Participant

      Thank you so much. I built the jig from a set of plans I purchased from Woodsmith. https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/finger-joint-jig/
      When I built the Fremont nightstand I cut the drawer joinery with a table saw sled and a stacked dado blade as Darrell shows in the guild video. I was experiencing some tear out using this method. You really need a very sharp dado blade. Since I wanted to achieve continuous grain across the drawer fronts on the dresser, I did not want to risk ruining a piece due to tear out. I was able to cut them with zero tear out with the Woodsmith jig. Darrell uses the multi router when he cuts them. As Mick pointed out, I found a board with a really nice arcing grain pattern that follows the arched rail for the top three drawers. I also had just enough wide stock for the bottom drawers. If I messed those up, I would have had to either buy more wide boards or glue narrower board together. I really wanted to make them from one wide board. I only have a 6″ jointer so I had to flatten them using a planer sled. Here is a close-up picture of the finger joint jig I built.

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      • #2790
        JoeJ
        Moderator

        We had a member of the old Yahoo group, David Wade, that did a YouTube Video of a similar jig of his own making about 10 years ago. The video is still available by searching on “Greene & Greene finger joint jig”. It looks like they would work about the same way.

      • #2869
        James Snow
        Moderator

        Hey Joe, I just talked to David Wade a couple days ago…He has been the primary Greene and Greene lighting fixture woodworker for the past several years for Old California Lighting…..He is retiring (mostly) and going to travel, so I am taking over the building of the fixtures for them. Was at his shop….he has a whole lot of cool jigs lying around…..although i don’t think he has nearly the amount of toggle clamps that Darrell has…hahahah He is a great guy and has been super helpful in getting me up to speed. I love this community for that.

      • #3029
        JoeJ
        Moderator

        Hey James,

        That’s great! I didn’t know he was retiring – I hadn’t seen him mention it on the big social network. Good luck in doing the work for OCL. I bought a hanging lantern from them a few years ago for the front porch. We love it.

      • #3400
        Jerry Samsen
        Participant

        I made one of those finger joint jigs years ago and it sits up on a wall and has never been used. I too experienced tear-out using the sled / dado method — I even got a new dado stack but still had the problem. Maybe time to bring it down off the wall and use it for this project.

    • #2668
      Darrell
      Keymaster

      This is a challenging project – Looking great!

    • #2696
      Charles Gray
      Participant

      Thank you. It is through the knowledge that you have shared that has made it possible.

    • #3045
      Jerry Samsen
      Participant

      Since I don’t own a copy of AutoCAD, the DXF file does not work for me. I tried the DXF to PDF converters on line and as app. That doesn’t work well either. The best I’ve found is a DXF viewer on AutoDesk website.

      I’m hoping I can find a printer in the area that can print this for me. I’m a SketchUp user and I assume this file has layers and views that can be printed. Would also like to print the templates full scale. Would a reprographics house the specializes in engineering plots/prints be the way to go?

    • #3047
      Charles Gray
      Participant

      I downloaded an old copy of Google Sketchup 7 which I believe is the last free version that will load DXF files. I then saved it as a SKP then loaded it into Sketchup 2017 which is the version I use.

      • #3049
        Jerry Samsen
        Participant

        Thanks! That worked. Now if I can just figure out how to make SketchUp print 1:1 scale to make some templates.

    • #3050
      Charles Gray
      Participant

      Make sure you have parallel projection selected under the camera menu.

    • #3259
      MarkH
      Participant

      Charles, I tried your suggestion of downloading Google Sketchup 7, importing the .DXF, and saving as a .SKP. But the scale did not convert properly. When I try to take measurements from the drawing in Sketchup 2017 they are way off. For example the 4 bottom drawers are reading as 306″ wide. Is there a simple scale conversion/selection that I am missing? Thank you.

      • #3260
        Jerry Samsen
        Participant

        Use the measuring tape to measure the reference dimension on the rectangle in the drawing. Then type the actual dimension. I think it will ask you if you want to rescale the entire drawing.

        It is simple if not obvious. If that didn’t make sense I’ll go to my Mac and recreate exact steps.

        I did Google research to figure that out.

        • This reply was modified 3 months, 3 weeks ago by Jerry Samsen.
    • #3262
      MarkH
      Participant

      I do understand what you are saying. But what are the dimensions of the rectangle in the drawing? I assume you are referring to the rectangle to the right of the top view, and above the side view, but I don’t see any reference to a dimension anywhere. I used the length of the back from the cut list and resized the drawing with that. It seems to be correct.

    • #3396
      Jerry Samsen
      Participant

      I am in the build process of the dresser after completing two night stands and the chest of drawers. I’ve been looking at Darrell’s Instagram posts for clues. I am building the arched rail web frame at this time. It looked like Darrell made a complete subassembly of the top web frame and the arched rail web frame with the drawer dividers installed. Does that sound about right? The more subassemblies the better but not too sure how final case assembly will go if I make the two top web frames as a single assembly. Seems like the two frames would only be held together by the drawer dividers making it a little wonky.

      Thanks.

      • #3397
        Charles Gray
        Participant

        Yes, I believe he posted a video on instagram detailing the process. Following his method, I built two plywood spacers that set the distance between the top and arched web frames as well as the locations of the vertical dividers. I glued the top web frame, the arched web frame and the two vertical dividers together as a subassembly.

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      • #3401
        Jerry Samsen
        Participant

        Thank you. I’ll do the same. This helps a lot.

        • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 5 days ago by Jerry Samsen.
    • #3403
      Charles Gray
      Participant

      I had to put the build on the back burner for four months, but I have finally reached the point where it is ready for finish. I plan to finish it with Livos oil. Then all that will be left is to install the drawer runners and stops.

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